Author Archives: Charlie Haywood

FINNISH MADE FOOTWEAR FROM TARVAS

FINNISH MADE FOOTWEAR FROM TARVAS

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FINNISH MADE FOOTWEAR FROM TARVAS

We’re happy to be the exclusive UK stockists of Finnish footwear label, Tarvas. Tracing their origins back to Helsinki, their shoes have been designed with the unpredictable Scandinavian weather in mind.

Taking inspiration from the fjords and forests of their home country, in store we have their Explorer model, a sleek, modern silhouette that is perfectly suited for both natural and urban environments. Coming in soft sand nubuck and textured deep navy suede, the two iterations we have in store have been completely made in Finland by experienced craftspeople in small quantities. What gives them their unique look is the waterproof mudguard that sits around the entire foot that helps protect from the wet as well as providing a clean, minimal aesthetic.

We spoke with Tarvas co-founder Jukka Lehtinen to get a better understanding of the history of the brand and how he and his team blend Nordic minimalist design philosophies with resilient functionality.


 

P&s: What was the inspiration behind Tarvas and how did the brand begin?

JL: Five years ago we started playing around with an idea to create something of our own. One of our founders had a workshop in Helsinki where he could hand make shoes so we got together and started working on a silhouette that eventually became the Explorer. Our aim was to create quality footwear that is resistant to uncertain weather conditions and lives up to high aesthetic standards.

Finland is famous for its incredible landscape, how much does this inform your design process?

We constantly go back and draw inspiration from Finnish nature, we want the Tarvas shoes to work in city and nature environments. Hence the name Explorer of our first shoe silhouette. 

FINNISH MADE FOOTWEAR FROM TARVASFINNISH MADE FOOTWEAR FROM TARVAS

Minimalism is a key part of Nordic design, how do you balance this ethos with functionality?

We believe minimalism and functionality can blend together perfectly. For us functionality means that all the elements in a shoe are thought through so that the shoe works well in the desired use: the shape of the last, the grip pattern on the outsole, the durable yet breathable upper materials and the water protective mudguard and so on. We want there to be nothing that has zero functionality on the shoe. 

How do you go about sourcing the materials and manufacturing for your footwear? 

While some other brands use a sourcing/developing agency to put their designs to life, we want to do everything ourselves and know every vendor we work with. This means we have a better understanding of all the materials and more control over everything. All the materials for a pair of Tarvas are sourced from Europe and the manufacturing takes place here in Finland just two hours train ride from Helsinki.

What are your plans for the future of Tarvas?

We are currently developing the second silhouette. The first prototypes are being made by hand in our Helsinki workshop as we speak. Other than that we just want to keep on working to get Tarvas out there to quality retailers like Peggs & son and slowly grow from there. 

FINNISH MADE FOOTWEAR FROM TARVAS
FINNISH MADE FOOTWEAR FROM TARVASFINNISH MADE FOOTWEAR FROM TARVASFINNISH MADE FOOTWEAR FROM TARVAS

Shop the Finnish made footwear from Tarvas in store and online now…

NEW IN: TILAK AND POUTNIK BY TILAK

NEW IN: TILAK AND POUTNIK BY TILAK

NEW IN: TILAK AND POUTNIK BY TILAK

Hailing from the Czech Republic, the outerwear from Tilak and Poutnik by Tilak has been designed with urban wear in mind. Sitting on the design team of Poutnik by Tilak is Errolson Hugh, the man behind Acronym, Arc’teryx Veilance, Stone Island Shadow Project and Nike ACG. In fact, all of the clothing is made in the same factories and to the same exacting specifications as Hugh’s own label, Acronym.

You can see design influences everywhere, especially in the Shield Coat GTX shown above. A slimmed down, utilitarian take on a classic military parka, it has been cut from GORE-TEX Pro 3L, it features taped seams throughout for complete protection from the wet weather.

We are also big fans of their base layers, the Pygmy Vest and Pygmy Jacket. Both are lightweight and highly insulating and perfect for keeping the cold weather at bay. With exteriors that have been cut from soft, durable Pertex Microlight fabric, they have been fully lined with Climashield Apex insulation.

We also have the clothing from the parent label, Tilak, here in store. Having been at the forefront of outerwear design for a number of years, their approach is to blend classic silhouettes with modern materials to offer complete protection from the elements.

Shown below is the Odin Jacket, a lightweight, versatile number that has been based around a simple smock style. Cut from weather resistant Ventile, the Odin comes in an olive colourway and features a multitude of exterior pockets. Adjustable cuffs, a short laminated zip placket and adjustable hood completes the look.

NEW IN: TILAK AND POUTNIK BY TILAK NEW IN: TILAK AND POUTNIK BY TILAKNEW IN: TILAK AND POUTNIK BY TILAK NEW IN: TILAK AND POUTNIK BY TILAK

 

Shop the full selection of Tilak and Poutnik by Tilak in store and online now…

OUR FIRST VIDEO EDITORIAL

OUR FIRST VIDEO EDITORIAL AT THE ARTIST RESIDENCE

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Welcome to the first of our video editorials focusing on some of the highlights from our rails this season. We headed to the Artist Residence in Brighton for a closer look at the latest arrivals from visvim, A.P.C., Red Wing, Norse Projects and more.

You can shop the AW17 collections in full either in store or over on the website now…


OUR FIRST VIDEO EDITORIAL OUR FIRST VIDEO EDITORIAL OUR FIRST VIDEO EDITORIAL OUR FIRST VIDEO EDITORIAL OUR FIRST VIDEO EDITORIAL OUR FIRST VIDEO EDITORIAL OUR FIRST VIDEO EDITORIAL OUR FIRST VIDEO EDITORIAL OUR FIRST VIDEO EDITORIAL OUR FIRST VIDEO EDITORIAL OUR FIRST VIDEO EDITORIAL OUR FIRST VIDEO EDITORIAL

Many thanks to Artist Residence. Model: Muhala Weeze Mtonga. Video: Jamie O’Mara.

INTERVIEW WITH DAVID KEYTE FROM UNIVERSAL WORKS

INTERVIEW WITH DAVID KEYTE FROM UNIVERSAL WORKS

INTERVIEW WITH DAVID KEYTE FROM UNIVERSAL WORKS

British label Universal Works have been doing there thing for almost nine years now. We were on of the very first stores to stock their clothing and every year we are impressed with the incredible collections they produce. Blending classic items of workwear with distinctive military influences, their clothing manages to have a modern, contemporary feel that is highly wearable. We thought it high time to catch up with the man behind the label, David Keyte, to discuss his influences, the label’s early days and what the future has in store for Universal Works. Take a read below to see what he has to say for himself…

 

P&s: Universal Works has been going for a long time, how did you start the label and what was the original idea?

DK: I started the brand when my last employer had some money issues and stopped paying me. I thought if I’m doing this for free I’ll do it for me! The original idea was simple, make some great kit and find a few stores that might buy it from me. For me it was all about product, I wanted to make really great menswear. I knew I could make it, I just had to find out if the rest of the world out there would like it as much as I did.

 

You’re now approaching your 9th anniversary, how much has changed in the way you do business in the last decade?

Mostly the change is about scale, we are a bigger company now. Initially it was just me, then it was just me and my partner Stephanie and now it’s three shops, 200 stockists around the world and 20 staff. Everything is bigger, but equally I’m still trying to make the same great kit, well designed but not over designed, good fitting, good quality clothes.

INTERVIEW WITH DAVID KEYTE FROM UNIVERSAL WORKS

You’re well known for your workwear aesthetic, but you also like to experiment a lot. How do you manage customer expectations with your own creativity, or do you even have to? 

Wow, big question. I try to keep in my mind a friend of mine, he likes his clothes, stylish guy, but he is also a normal guy, a builder who likes a pint in the local pub. I try to keep in mind that I need to be able to appeal to that guy. But also yes, I want to experiment enough to move the collection along each season and explore the shapes and fits a little. But I’m not trying to be avant-garde. I want to make clothes that can be universal after all, hence the name, but never boring, never dull, so we need a little experimentation.

 

How did you first get involved in the industry and what did you learn working alongside designers such as Paul Smith? 

I first got a job as a Saturday boy in a store in Derby in the Midlands, I only did it to get discount in the store really! But I did learn about retail and clothing and I eventually progressed to full time and then to manager.

What did I learn from Paul Smith? Well, everything really, mostly all good. Somethings I would never do the same for sure, but he was/is a great retailer and talented designer and runs a hugely successful business. I have utter respect for him, but I also learned a lot from the other places I worked and from the other designers I worked with. I loved being at Maharishi.

To be honest I’m still learning, if you’re not learning you’re dead in the water! I’ll never stop learning, it’s the fun bit.

INTERVIEW WITH DAVID KEYTE FROM UNIVERSAL WORKS

Do you think you could start something like Universal Works in the current climate and what advice do you have for young designers?

I started Universal Works in the dying days of 2008, early 2009 amidst the world’s biggest recession since the 1930’s (maybe other than WW2). We still got ourselves established and grew bit by bit, with no finical backers, no bank loan, no Kickstarter, just lots of hard work and hopefully great product. I think there is always and never a good time to start a business, it’s really about passion and belief. You need endless amounts of both, maybe if you have experience it can help hugely too.

But for me the important part is the passion and the hard work to do YOUR thing and not what the money tells you to do. Never let the accountant run the business is my advice. It’s all about risk at the end of the day, just try to calculate the risk with some experience and then go for it.

 

What does the future hold for Universal Works?

I don’t know the answer to that one but we have a plan at Universal Works, and that’s NOT to have a plan. We are just going to carry on doing our thing, trying to make the world a better place. It sounds like pretentious shit but I mean it. I can only do that through making good, honest, well-made, long lasting clothing and being a decent company, doing the right things by our customers, staff, suppliers and being nice. Nice is underrated in this world.

 

Many thanks to David for taking the time to answer our questions. You can take a look at the latest Universal Works collection in full over on the website now…

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AW17 EDITORIAL: STYLE IS THE ANSWER TO EVERYTHING

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For our AW17 editorial, we take a closer look at the tonal layers, subtle textures and autumnal colours that have filled out rails over the past few months.

For us, winter is always our favourite season, allowing us to crack out the big coats, chunky knitwear and layer up for the onset of the cold weather. This season we have added a selection of new labels to the store, including French label Danton whose focus on sharp silhouettes has seen them create the perfect down filled gilet. We also welcome Country Of Origin, the South London based label who are doing a great job of crafting contemporary knitwear with a bold, eye-catching edge.

But store favourites, those such as Engineered Garments and Maharishi, also make a much welcome return. The Engineered Garments Duffel Coat is a particular highlight and the M-21 Sweatshirts from Good Measure also remind us that although the skies may be grey and dull, you can still inject some colour into a winter outfit…

You can shop all the clothing featured in our editorial by clicking here

AW17 EDITORIAL: STYLE IS THE ANSWER TO EVERYTHINGAW17 EDITORIAL: STYLE IS THE ANSWER TO EVERYTHING AW17 EDITORIAL: STYLE IS THE ANSWER TO EVERYTHING AW17 EDITORIAL: STYLE IS THE ANSWER TO EVERYTHINGAW17 EDITORIAL: STYLE IS THE ANSWER TO EVERYTHING AW17 EDITORIAL: STYLE IS THE ANSWER TO EVERYTHINGAW17 EDITORIAL: STYLE IS THE ANSWER TO EVERYTHINGAW17 EDITORIAL: STYLE IS THE ANSWER TO EVERYTHING AW17 EDITORIAL: STYLE IS THE ANSWER TO EVERYTHINGAW17 EDITORIAL: STYLE IS THE ANSWER TO EVERYTHINGAW17 EDITORIAL: STYLE IS THE ANSWER TO EVERYTHING

 

Shop all the clothing featured in this editorial by clicking here

 

DOWN JACKETS FOR THE WINTER WEATHER

DOWN JACKETS FOR THE WINTER WEATHER

DOWN JACKETS FOR THE WINTER WEATHER

Welcome to the cosy, highly insulated world of the down jacket. The tried and tested combination of fluffy down and heat retaining feathers has been used for centuries to protect from the cold weather. In store we have a fine selection of goose and duck down jackets in a range of styles, all perfect for keeping the elements at bay. Keep reading below as we run through a few staff favourites from the likes of Belstaff, Norse Projects, C.P. Company and Holubar.

Let’s start with Patagonia, a brand with a rich heritage in producing clothing for the great outdoors who are considered by many to be masters of the down. Their Down Shirt, shown above, is a lightweight, water resistant mid-layer that keeps bulk to a minimum despite being filled with 600 fill down. Crafted for rigorous use, a funnel neck, zip fastened front, two hip pockets and a Patagonia patch logo on the chest finish the look.

DOWN JACKETS FOR THE WINTER WEATHER

Another great offering we have is the Holubar Deer Hunter Parka, a winter take on the classic jacket worn by Robert De Niro in The Deer Hunter. The iconic dark orange colourway has been paired with a water-resistant 82/18 Italian made outer and duck down and feather lining. Holubar celebrate their 70th anniversary this year and this special jacket, with its four large exterior pockets, large adjustable hood and two-way zip, is a celebration of everything they have become renowned for.

DOWN JACKETS FOR THE WINTER WEATHER

Down isn’t just confined to jackets as the Gilet Down Padded Imini from Italian label C.P. Company shown above demonstrates. Eschewing sleeves, a gilet tends to me much more versatile and manoeuvrable, and, as most heat is lost through the body, you sacrifice little to no loss of warmth. This version comes in a black colourway, features a funnel neck collar and the iconic C.P. Company lens logo detailing is also present on the chest.

DOWN JACKETS FOR THE WINTER WEATHER

Whilst British label Belstaff have a long and involved history with motorcycle culture and are associated with their classic leather jackets, they still produce modern clothing with contemporary fabrics. The Halewood Down Blouson above packs in an incredible 790 power fill down making it suitable for extremely cold conditions. Replicating the silhouette of a café racer with its snap fastening collar and shoulder paneling, the exterior has been cut from high-density nylon, a fabric selected for its resilience and water-resistance.

DOWN JACKETS FOR THE WINTER WEATHER

Whilst down typically refers to the feathers from a goose or a duck, there are progressive brands like Norse Projects who like to experiment with new fabric and material technologies. The Thor, shown above, is a modern take on a classic mac style that has been fully lined with Polartec Power Fill wadding, a viable, environmentally friendly insulator. Constructed from a soft and pliable matrix of recycled polyester yarns, thousands of small air pockets continuously capture and contain body heat while maintaining a resilient thermal layer between the colder air on the outside and the warmer temperatures inside.

 

Shop our full selection of down jackets for the winter weather in store and online now…

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WINTER KNITS: OUR TOP PICKS THIS SEASON

WINTER KNITS: OUR TOP PICKS THIS SEASON

As the nights draw in and the temperature drops, our focus inevitably shifts from shirts and sweats to that most winter of garments, knitwear. From luxurious merino to brushed lambswool, this season we have a huge selection of knits in store from brands such as YMC, Norse Projects, MHL by Margaret Howell, S.N.S. Herning, Folk and many more.

Injecting some much needed colour and pattern into the grey days that lie ahead is Folk’s Interference Crew. The British label have carved out a reputation for themselves for creating unique clothing with a contemporary twist and the Interference crew, using geometric layered weave, is a prime example of this.

For something a little subtler, we have the Sigfred Lambswool from Danish label Norse Projects. Creating products perfectly suited for Scandinavian winters, the Sigfred is their minimal take on a simple winter knit and has been constructed using 100% lambswool that features a soft, brushed handle. But it is the glacier blue colourway that really wins it for us.

French brand Armor Lux know a thing or two about creating hardwearing warm clothing having supplied Brittany’s sailors with knitwear since 1938. Our pick is their winter take on the classic Breton stripe, the Pull Martin Heritage Knit that has been cut from dense lambswool. Complimenting the navy, white and red colourway are four Armor Lux branded buttons and finishing things off are a regular fit, heavy crew neck collar and small Armor Lux patch logo located near the hem.

Shop our selection of winter knits in full over on our website now.

WINTER KNITS: OUR TOP PICKS THIS SEASON WINTER KNITS: OUR TOP PICKS THIS SEASON WINTER KNITS: OUR TOP PICKS THIS SEASON WINTER KNITS: OUR TOP PICKS THIS SEASON

SEE THE LATEST TENDER CO. COLLECTION

SEE THE LATEST TENDER CO. COLLECTION

SEE THE LATEST TENDER CO. COLLECTION

Artisan is a word that gets thrown around with carefree abandon these days, but in the case of Tender Co. it is an apt description of their manufacturing process. Working with small production numbers (often only a handful of pieces in any one style), the techniques used have not been scaled for mass manufacturing.

The result is hand cut garments, dyed in tiny quantities to exacting standards. This also allows founder William Kroll to experiment with techniques and methods that have long been forgotten by modern mass production methods. His use of unusual dyes and forgotten materials combine to create unique results in each collection he produces.

Take the Bound Hem Split Tail Shirt that has been made in England from a mixture of cotton and wool. It has been dyed using yellow ochre, a natural earth pigment that has been used by humans for tens of thousands of years. Its ancient origins can be traced back to the Neolithic period where it was an important part of warfare, ritualistic burial and cave paintings.

Kroll’s fascination for long forgotten pigments can also be seen in his use of Prussian blue for the Linen Folded Morning Coat. Utilised by van Gogh’ in his famous Starry Night painting, it is used in this case to provide a contrast between the horizontal stripes that make up the coat’s exterior. Delving deeper, the garment has been kitted out with two large circular drop pockets on the hips and copper rivets on the stress points.

Pigment dying techniques aren’t the only trick up Tender’s artisanal crafted sleeve; their leather goods are something very special too. The Wire Buckle Belt is a fine example of this as it has been constructed completely in England from oak bark and wattle tanned leather. This process took place at a tannery in Devon where leather has been produced, by largely unchanged methods, since Roman times.

Traditional oak bark tannage takes up to 18 months, during which time the hides are moved between increasingly stronger tan pits. The tannins in the oak bark slowly cure the skins and produce rich, dense leather that mellows and improves in character with age and use.

While smooth assembly line production might give cleaner, more perfect results, the “perfection of imperfection”, as Kroll calls it, can only be achieved through people making each item one by one. Each garment or product is the result of the maker’s skill.

SEE THE LATEST TENDER CO. COLLECTION SEE THE LATEST TENDER CO. COLLECTION SEE THE LATEST TENDER CO. COLLECTION SEE THE LATEST TENDER CO. COLLECTION SEE THE LATEST TENDER CO. COLLECTION SEE THE LATEST TENDER CO. COLLECTION SEE THE LATEST TENDER CO. COLLECTION SEE THE LATEST TENDER CO. COLLECTION SEE THE LATEST TENDER CO. COLLECTION

You can take a look at the complete Tender Co. collection in store and online now.

NEW BATTENWEAR COLLECTION

NEW BATTENWEAR COLLECTION

NEW BATTENWEAR COLLECTION

Combining his love of surfing & the outdoors, Battenwear is the brainchild of resident New Yorker Shinya Hasegawa. The latest collection has landed here in store and, as expected, it manages to blend styles as varied as military clothing and classic sportswear with Hagesawa’s distinctive flair.

One of the highlights for us is the Travel Shell Parka (above), a piece that has been crafted in the USA from a water repellant, durable 60/40 cloth. The khaki exterior features a multitude of pockets that have been paired with a tonal orange interior for a  smart look that harks back to the halcyon days of ’70s American outdoor hiking gear.

Another of our picks is the Warm-Up Fleece (below), a cosy number that comes in a natural colourway. The relaxed fit has been paired with raglan style sleeves, tonal cuffs and contrast pocket detailing. Two hip pockets and a zip fastened front complete the look.

We also love the sweats and accessories from the latest collection. The Reach-Up Sweatshirt is a style that returns each season, as do the Travel and Field Caps. You can take a look at the collection in full either in store or online now

NEW BATTENWEAR COLLECTION NEW BATTENWEAR COLLECTION NEW BATTENWEAR COLLECTION NEW BATTENWEAR COLLECTION NEW BATTENWEAR COLLECTION NEW BATTENWEAR COLLECTION NEW BATTENWEAR COLLECTION

PEGGS X ACE & TATE SUNGLASSES

PEGGS X ACE & TATE SUNGLASSES

PEGGS X ACE & TATE SUNGLASSES

We’re proud to announce that we have teamed up with Dutch based eyewear company Ace & Tate for an exclusive sunglasses collaboration.

Ace & Tate, a brand known for their premium acetate construction and high quality optics, have been producing bold, modern frames out of their Amsterdam based headquarters for many years now. We’re big fans of the sturdy feel that blends full UV protection with comfort.

For our collaboration we wanted to give an update to classic styles so we worked on two of their most iconic frames, the wayfarer influenced Allen and the rounded Byron. Both have a timeless look that suit a range of face types and we kitted out the Allen in a blond translucent colourway whilst the Byron comes in a dark tortoiseshell.

With dual branding on the inner arm, shop the exclusive collaboration either in store or online now…

PEGGS X ACE & TATE SUNGLASSESPEGGS X ACE & TATE SUNGLASSESAce Tate exclusiveblog-0848Ace Tate exclusiveblog-0841PEGGS X ACE & TATE SUNGLASSES