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INTERVIEW: RUSS GATOR FROM TSPTR

INTERVIEW: RUSS GATOR FROM TSPTR

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INTERVIEW: RUSS GATOR FROM TSPTR

Americana has always held a special place in streetwear and menswear communities. Iconic cartoon characters such as Popeye and Betty Boop have found themselves sitting next to Supreme logos, vintage military pieces and varsity jackets are as relevant as ever and the American influence on Japanese brands such as Neighborhood and orSlow is evident season after season.

Here in the UK we have embraced American culture more than most and one brand that truly embodies the independent spirit of the States is London based TSPTR. Hugely influenced by both ‘60s and ‘70s pop and counter culture, TSPTR combine well known icons, those such as Taxi Driver’s psychotic Travis Bickle, with military and collegiate influences. The result is clothing that pays respect to the past yet retains a contemporary twist.

INTERVIEW: RUSS GATOR FROM TSPTR

While TSPTR draw inspiration from a variety of different sources, one thing that has had a huge influence on the brand are the characters from Charles M. Schulz’s Peanuts. While it may be easy for some to dismiss the comic strip as merely a cartoon, Schulz’s creation has long had a significant cultural impact ever since its publication in 1950. TSPTR’s admiration goes far beyond a simple homage to a beloved American classic, they use Schulz’s shrewd social commentary as the basis for many of their recent collections.

“Schultz is hugely relevant in the sense that his work subtly, and at times explicitly, engaged with many serious national issues,” explains TSPTR founder Russ Gator. “The 1960s were a turbulent decade for the United States, the assassination of JFK in 1963 signaled the beginning of a period of massive social upheaval and Schulz’s work began to channel the anxieties of many average Americans.  The Peanuts characters came to embody Americans’ serious concerns about the real world, allowing readers to consider and debate these issues through an unlikely medium.”

INTERVIEW: RUSS GATOR FROM TSPTR

During the ‘60s Peanuts grew into mainstream success and became the most read comic strip in America. This gave Schulz a national platform for his social and political commentary that turned the likes of Charlie Brown and Snoopy into unassuming activists for social change. However, the counter culture potential of Peanuts was not fully realised until 1967 when Schulz’s growing resentment of the Vietnam War became more overt.

It was 1967 when Schulz introduced the Flying Ace narrative that saw Snoopy regularly daydreaming about being a fighter pilot in World War I, chasing an enemy named the Red Baron. Although this narrative was set in the early 20th century, it cleverly mirrored the events of the war in South East Asia and acted as a subtle satirical commentary.

“The Flying Ace narrative began to focus on the soldiers who had been drafted and the tragedy of combat itself, offering mainstream endorsement to the thousands who had burned their draft cards and protested the unjustifiable war,” explains Russ. “Years later he laid his personal feelings out on the page with Snoopy participating in a protest and riot against the Vietnam War.”

INTERVIEW: RUSS GATOR FROM TSPTR

Schulz’s criticism of the war made it over to the American troops in Vietnam and the Peanuts characters became unofficial mascots of the soldiers growing discontent and resentment. As an act of rebellion towards a war they no longer believed in, they painted the characters on military gear, including their planes and uniforms.

“They appeared on many unofficial unit insignia such as patches, helmet art and Zippo lighters, often exclaiming their disapproval of being shipped halfway around the world to fight someone else’s war,” explains Russ. “Snoopy in particular served on the helmets of assault helicopter pilots and on the noses of combat aircrafts alongside such anti war statements as rainbows, peace signs and slogans such as ‘Draft LBJ’.”

This civil act of defiance is a huge source of inspiration for TSPTR, so much so that the brand regularly pay tribute to it throughout their collections: “This period is really at the core of the brand’s ethos, so much social and political change happened between the mid ‘60s and mid ‘70s, it’s a fascinating time to focus on.”

INTERVIEW: RUSS GATOR FROM TSPTR

When it came time to choose the graphics for the exclusive Peggs & son collaboration with TSPTR the choice was clear. The Peanuts characters are a classic motif with a strong message behind them that is still relevant today. Couple this with Brighton’s thriving skateboarding scene and love of all things vintage, and the result perfectly sums up the city.

You can shop the Brighton capsule collection, our homage to one of the most influential contributors to American popular and counter culture, in store and online now.

 

Words and images: George Metcalf

SUMMER SUNGLASSES

SUMMER SUNGLASSES

Summer sunglasses

Is there a more quintessential summer item than sunglasses? With the double benefit of making you look cool and protecting your eyes, every man needs a great pair. Fortunately here in store we have a wide selection to choose from.

Below we run through some of our favourite styles both classic and contemporary. First up we have Swedish label Sun Buddies (pink background) who are know for their quality acetate frames that reference iconic styles that they pair with unusual and bold colourways. Next is Le Specs, a label that despite their name hail from Australia (green/blue background). From classic aviators to riffs on wayfarers, their selection is perfect for those who value individuality.

A new brand to us here at Peggs & son is Ace & Tate (grey background). Based out of the Netherlands, they craft lightweight, highly wearable eyewear. The styles we have in store are updates on classics and we especially like the Monty with its pearly white frames. Last but not least we have YMC’s seasonal offerings (top image). Once again they have teamed up with Shoreditch based opticians Bridges & Brows to create refined offering. If you like classic, easy wearing shapes then be sure to take a look at their frames.

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Shop our full selection of sunglasses either in store or online now…

SUMMER CITY STYLE WITH JAKE STORY FROM OVERDILUTED

SUMMER CITY STYLE WITH JAKE STORY FROM OVERDILUTED

JAKE STORY SUMMER SHOOT

Once again we have teamed up with local Brighton menswear and lifestyle blogger Jake Story of Overdiluted to get his take on this season’s arrivals. Now that the sun is out, we took to the streets of our hometown to test some city summer looks. See more below…

There’s a distinct difference between summer style at home and what you might wear on holiday, which I feel is important to think about when it comes to buying for the current season. You don’t want a Club Tropicana style wardrobe going on when it’s 17 degrees and a bit overcast outside. Generally, we’re blessed with pretty good weather here in Brighton, but there’s always that sea breeze to contend with, which makes the straight up shorts and t-shirt look worth thinking twice about.

My rule of thumb for the summer is that when you wear shorts, opt for an extra layer or at least a long sleeve on your top half. Likewise, go for trousers that offer breathability and wear them with shorter sleeves. Sometimes, it’s even worth sizing up for t-shirts to get that extra bit of breathability along with a relaxed style… when the weather’s great, it’s all about feeling nice and comfortable.”

JAKE STORY SUMMER SHOOT JAKE STORY SUMMER SHOOTJAKE STORY SUMMER SHOOT

The Battenwear Coach Jacket is a real standout piece that’ll get wear all year round, it’s just so workable and easily layered. The CMMN Arthur Sweat I styled it with offers a nice pop of colour while the relaxed style ensures it never feels close or restricting on warmer days. I like this outfit because you could imagine it with an extra layer and some dark denim and boots for autumn/winter. That kind of longevity is always good, even YMC Sunglasses come in handy on those bright, winter days, so it’s worth trying to consider how things might work in colder climes.”

 


 

JAKE STORY SUMMER SHOOT JAKE STORY SUMMER SHOOT JAKE STORY SUMMER SHOOTJAKE STORY SUMMER SHOOT

“Pairing the light and bright YMC Malick Shirt with the Stan Ray Painter Pant offers a nice way of keeping the colours interesting while still fairly subtle, which I think is helped by the simplicity of the Aquascutum Cullen Plain Tee underneath. I’m usually pretty muted with colour, but while summer’s here, you may as well make the most of it and use it as an opportunity to experiment a little.”

 


 

JAKE STORY SUMMER SHOOT JAKE STORY SUMMER SHOOT JAKE STORY SUMMER SHOOTJAKE STORY SUMMER SHOOT

Of course, it’d be criminal not to talk about Brighton and summer without mentioning the beach. My final look is perfect for a lazy day down making the most of living right on the South Coast. Nothing crazy, just straight up gear that works well for laid back summer days, wherever they might be spent. I’m a big Armor Lux fan for the quality and price they offer and the summer variant of their Sailor Shirt is the perfect lightweight tee you’ll get loads of wear out of. The showstopper is the Porter – Yoshida Helmet Bag. It’s got that statement vibe you’d expect from Porter but still simple enough for the practicality of a day at the beach. Carrying your suncream and frisbee never looked so good.”

 

Many thanks to Jake for taking the time to put this shoot together. If you haven’t already, be sure to take a look at his Overdiluted blog. You can shop all the clothing and accessories featured in this look either in store or over on the website now.

INTERVIEW WITH CATHAL MCATEER OF FOLK

INTERVIEW WITH CATHAL MCATEER OF FOLK

INTERVIEW WITH CATHAL MCATEER OF FOLK

For 15 years British label Folk have been staging a quiet revolution in the world of menswear. Taking the principles of good design, they have made a name for themselves through crafting clothing with intricate detailing and sumptuous materials. This, combined with their use of unusual patterns and bold colours, has garnered them many fans over the years whilst at the same time spawning countless imitators.

Founder and designer Cathal McAteer has been a long time friend of the store ever since we began stocking his label over 10 years ago. As his brand celebrate an important milestone, we thought it high time to sit down with the man to discuss the history of Folk, where he finds his inspiration and what the future has in store…

 

Folk was founded some 15 years ago; can you tell us a bit about the origins of the label?

Cathal: The origins are simply my desire to make my own clothes and all the notes I had squirrelled away on how I would do it if I could. I’ve been lucky to have gotten around a bit and all my life experiences have also assisted what we do here at Folk.

You’ve had a long history with menswear, starting in Glasgow I believe?

It started with a Saturday job I had in the shop Ichi Ni San. I was 16 and we sold many many magic brands: Dries Van Noten, Joe Casely Hayford, Costume National, Helmut Lang, Vivienne Westwood. From that moment I was involved. Knee deep. At 21 I moved to London to continue learning.

Without a pot to piss in I had to bide my time and save my pennies, learn and wait for the right opportunities to fall.

You’ve become known for your detail driven design aesthetic, so much so that is has turned into somewhat of a signature. Can you explain your obsession with the minutiae?

When I first started Folk the numbers were tiny.  This meant we did not reach minimums for fabrics and had to buy everything from stock houses. With these slim pickings it was of course not the most exciting range so we had to add the spark, the something else that would get us noticed.

Using colour and detail we shaped our aesthetic. This has evolved throughout the 15 years and has become something we now do very well. That extra, the discovery after purchase.

Your ambitions to design and create extend beyond just creating clothing, you have also made furniture in the past. What is it about furniture design that fascinates you?

I love all forms of design and furniture raised its head young for me. I was completely incompetent at school so going to Art/Design School was not option. I have never really wondered what it is about furniture design that I love, I just happen to draw a lot of furniture pieces. Hopefully one day I can get more of them made.

In the past you’ve also talked about Folk becoming a design house. Do you feel you have more to say beyond the confines of clothing design?  

For sure, but that is ambitious – which I am. But my first responsibility is to insure my fashion business is working. We have so much more to give in this area.

There seems to be a conscious effort to have a cohesive voice for Folk, how much importance do you put on things like shop fits, visual merchandising and social media all fitting with the ‘Folk’ way of doing things?

From the get go we have just gotten on with making product and opening stores, but in recent years we have been careful to bring it all together. This is a constant process and as it’s not my field we enrolled someone to assist us with a singular voice. The result is that we got more fucking focused and I am hoping everyone will benefit from this. I on the other hand get a bit twitchy…

What do we have to look forward to in AW17?

A reversible, metallic hooded, wadded jacket. A magic sheepskin, some great sweats. We also have a collaborative project involving Nick & Phil Goss two very lovely and talented artists.

What does the future hold for Folk?

More and more great product. Independence. Protesting with my family. Having fun… lots and lots of fun…

 

Many thanks to Cathal for taking the time to do this interview. You can see our latest Folk selection in store and online now.

 

 

FRESH SPRING COURT SELECTION

FRESH SPRING COURT SELECTION

FRESH SPRING COURT SELECTION

French label Spring Court have just delivered a fresh batch of their latest trainers to us here at the store. Blending bold colourways and unusual fabrics, they are the ideal for a laid back summer look.

Spring Court trainers made a real impact when they were first created in 1936 by Georges Grimmeisen. The Frenchman crafted them for use by tennis players but they soon caught on in fashion circles with people loving their simple design. One such fan was John Lennon who sported a pair not only on the front cover of the iconic Abbey Road album, but was so taken by the shoes that he even wore them on his wedding day.

The same unmistakable look remains to this day, but the offering of colourways and material types have expanded somewhat. In store we have an array of styles, from the classic white canvas to the highly textured hemp. All come complete with tonal laces, rubber toe cap and comfortable padded sole with trademark ventilation holes. We think that their strongest point though is their versatility. Slip on with  shorts, wear with some relaxed chinos or even pair with some washed denim, the choices are almost endless.

FRESH SPRING COURT SELECTION FRESH SPRING COURT SELECTION FRESH SPRING COURT SELECTION FRESH SPRING COURT SELECTION

 

Shop the Spring Court collection in full either in store or online now. 

 

 

A.P.C. GO SPORTSWEAR FOR SS17

A.P.C. GO SPORTSWEAR FOR SS17

A.P.C. GO SPORTSWEAR FOR SS17

The clothing from Parisian label A.P.C. is usually defined by its sharp cuts, military detailing and contemporary Gallic cool. We’re used to the label producing smart button down shirts and long wool overcoats, so the arrival of the SS17 collection here in store came as somewhat of a surprise. For this season, Jean Touitou’s brand have turned their attention to the world of sportswear with sweats, hoodies and branded cotton t-shirts all featuring heavily.

Featured in the latest selection is a small capsule collection of clothing that sees A.P.C. pay homage to the spiritual home of sportswear, America. All made in California, bold branding plays a key part, but as with everything from the French label, the quality of the material and fit are given serious consideration.

Another standout is the Blouson Alain, a trimmed down version of the iconic MA-1 flight jacket. The dark navy exterior has been cut from a cotton blend and the interior is fully lined. The front is fastened with a Riri zip that leads to a shawl collar in traditional fashion and two pockets are located on the hips. Completing matters is the obligatory pocket detailing on the upper left arm.

A.P.C. GO SPORTSWEAR FOR SS17 A.P.C. GO SPORTSWEAR FOR SS17 A.P.C. GO SPORTSWEAR FOR SS17 A.P.C. GO SPORTSWEAR FOR SS17 A.P.C. GO SPORTSWEAR FOR SS17 A.P.C. GO SPORTSWEAR FOR SS17

 

Take a look at latest A.P.C. collection in full either in store or over on our website now…

 

 

TIM LITTLE FROM GRENSON INTERVIEW

TIM LITTLE FROM GRENSON INTERVIEW

TIM LITTLE FROM GRENSON INTERVIEW

When it comes to the grand old tradition of English shoe making, few can compare to Grenson. With a long and illustrious history dating back 150 years, they certainly know their way around a last or two. But rather being stuck in the past, obsessing over heritage and reminiscing about bygone eras, they are a progressive company who are always looking to innovate with both material and design. One of the main reasons for this is the passion and enthusiasm of Grenson’s owner, Tim Little. Ahead of our hosting of the Grenson Trunk Show this week (you can RSVP here by the way), we thought it a great opportunity to sit down with the man to discuss footwear, fashion and the future…

 

Peggs: What attracted you to Grenson to begin with?

Tim: I knew Grenson from when I was I my 20s, they were always a classic brand with a bit of an edge. I was asked to join the business but I was worried that it would encroach on my own business, however 10 minutes in the factory and I was hooked.

How important is it to move forward with design whilst still staying true to the company’s heritage?

This is the balance that is at the heart of what we do. Without our heritage we are nothing, but without innovation design and relevance we would slowly die. The job is to mix the two with the right amount of each. Sometimes we get it wrong!

TIM LITTLE FROM GRENSON INTERVIEW

Collaboration with companies like New Balance are really interesting, do you plan to do any more of these in the future?

Yes, we do. We love collabs when they make sense. They need to add something. New Balance was wonderful because we made each shoe partly in our factory and partly in theirs. It was a celebration of English shoemaking between a Northampton shoemaker and a sneaker brand. It was hard to do but it was so much more than just sharing logos. With collabs you have to keep them quiet until launch so I can’t say much but watch this space!

How important is it to you to retain production in the UK?

Our factory is our heart; it is vital to the authenticity of the brand. It’s very hard these days to manage a factory as the labour isn’t available but it’s worth the hassle. We have been making shoes continuously for 150 years and that is not going to change.

What makes a great shoe?

For me it’s the combination of quality and design. Both are subjective but the consumer will tell us when we get something wrong. Design-wise I love simplicity, I always have. Simplicity is way harder than complicated design because it bare, you focus on every detail. Some people think design is about being different at all costs. Add as many things to the shoe as you can and people will say it’s original. I don’t buy that, I spend time on shape, proportion and lines. My favourite shoe is a wholecut which has no seams at all.

TIM LITTLE FROM GRENSON INTERVIEW

What’s your day to day like?

Random. I’m a bit all over the place. I tend to do things as they feel right not plan ahead. It’s also a combination of design, manufacturing, wholesale and retail, so every day is different.

What is the most rewarding aspect of your job?

Seeing our shoes being made and seeing them being worn.

What is the most challenging aspect of your job?

The same as everyone; the lack of time. I always think if I had 20% more time everything would be OK. It wouldn’t of course, I’d just be 20% more tired.

What is your vision for Grenson in the future?

Keep it simple. Make good shoes. Work with great retailers. Hire good people. The rest is out of my hands.

TIM LITTLE FROM GRENSON INTERVIEW

Many thanks to Tim and Laura from Grenson for helping to put this interview together. To take a look at our Grenson collection in full, please head to the website by clicking here…

LOOK AT THE NEW A.P.C. COLLECTION at Peggs & son.

LOOK AT THE NEW A.P.C. COLLECTION

LOOK AT THE NEW A.P.C. COLLECTION at Peggs & son.

In our latest blog post, we take a look at the new A.P.C. collection. The Parisian label need little introduction having been pioneers in the world of fashion for well over 20 years. Their trademark approach of blending military and sportswear influences with a minimalist Gallic aesthetic has seen them acquire a legion of dedicated followers and their latest collection is a continuation of this approach. We picked out some key pieces and took to the streets of Brighton for a closer look at their clothing and accessories.

First up we have the Sweat Bro in grey, a relaxed hooded style that has been cut from 100% cotton. The patch pocket on the front has been paired with a large hood, looser fit and a versatile grey colourway. A.P.C. love to straddle the line between formal and casual, so we paired this item with the Escharpe Large Homme Scarf. Cut from soft wool, it comes in an autumnal beige colourway. Completing matters is the Chemise Oliver, a smart, tailored shirt cut from crisp cotton with a subtle pinstripe pattern throughout.

Next up we have the Ivy League inspired Sweat College in dark navy with mismatched lettering covering the chest. To help with the cold weather in the winter months, we paired it with the heavyweight Surchemise Gary that has been cut from an insulating wool blend. Completing matters are the Panatalon Para, a light pair of olive trousers that take cues from classic military garments.

LOOK AT THE NEW A.P.C. COLLECTION at Peggs & son. LOOK AT THE NEW A.P.C. COLLECTION at Peggs & son. LOOK AT THE NEW A.P.C. COLLECTION at Peggs & son.LOOK AT THE NEW A.P.C. COLLECTION at Peggs & son. LOOK AT THE NEW A.P.C. COLLECTION at Peggs & son. LOOK AT THE NEW A.P.C. COLLECTION at Peggs & son.

To see the A.P.C. collection in full, be sure to head in store or head on over to our website.

AW16 LOOKS NOW AVAILABLE

AW16 LOOKS ARE NOW AVAILABLE TO VIEW

AW16 LOOKS NOW AVAILABLE

Our AW16 Looks are now available to view over on the website. Each season we put together a series of outfits making use of the great stock we have here in store for some wardrobe inspiration over the coming months. This season’s Looks feature clothing, footwear and accessories from the likes of Norse Projects, YMC, Engineered Garments, Our Legacy, Nike and many more. We will be continually uploading more looks as the season progresses so be sure to check back.

AW16 LOOKS NOW AVAILABLE AW16 LOOKS NOW AVAILABLE AW16 LOOKS NOW AVAILABLE AW16 LOOKS NOW AVAILABLE AW16 LOOKS NOW AVAILABLE AW16 LOOKS NOW AVAILABLE AW16 LOOKS NOW AVAILABLE

 

See our AW16 Looks in full by heading to the website now…

 

 

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AQUASCUTUM AW16 COLLECTION

Aquascutum AW16 collection

Founded in 1851, Aquascutum have been creating luxury men’s clothing for well over 150 years. Created by John Emary, a man who pioneered waterproof technology, the name Aquascutum is actually derived from Latin and means ‘watershield’. Their style in unmistakable and timeless; from the iconic house check to elegant overcoats, they have helped shape British fashion with flattering cuts and use of premium materials.

It is our first season with the label and we are happy to have their clothing and accessories now available in store and online. The check pattern is one of the most identifiable in menswear and a good proportion of their AW16 collection features it. From the Elmsworth Shirt to the Reversible Bucket Hat, those colours of white, burnished orange and navy appear throughout.

Aquascutum have also taken a look back through their archives to create some classic items from times gone by. One such piece is the Berkeley Raincoat a long, overcoat style that comes in both a navy and a camel colourway. With a flattering slim silhouette, the outer has been cut from a cotton blend that is hardwearing and water resistant. A large spread collar, two welt pockets on the hips and concealed placket keeps the detailing clean and minimal.

Also available are their selection of accessories, ranging from shoulder bags to wallets. Each features the house check and are available over on the website now.

Aquascutum AW16 collection Aquascutum AW16 collection Aquascutum AW16 collection Aquascutum AW16 collection

Shop the full Aquascutum AW16 collection either in store or online now.