To celebrate 15 years of partnership, we recently had the pleasure of sitting down with Universal Works founders David and Stephanie Keyte, along with our own founder Ian, for a candid conversation about the journey we’ve shared. From the early days of taking that very first order to the collaborative collection we’re launching today, it’s been a rewarding path built on mutual respect and creativity.
In this Q&A, David, Stephanie, and Ian reflect on their shared history, their design approach, and what makes this latest collection meaningful to both brands.
David & Stephanie, looking back 15 years, what were your initial thoughts when Peggs & son placed their first order with Universal Works?
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David: Am I allowed to swear? Thank f#$@ someone ordered that first collection. (Laughs) Genuinely, we weren't actually in the room when it happened because we used an amazing guy as our sales agent.
Stephanie: We didn’t want to do the sales.
David: We couldn't face people actually telling us how shit the collection was - or even how great it was. But I knew that one of the stores we wanted to target was a certain store in Brighton, which I knew from its previous name through brands I'd worked for and tried to sell to. So we were genuinely delighted and honoured that Ian wrote an order. We didn’t know Ian at all. I didn’t even know there was someone called Ian Peggs! I knew the name of the store, but I didn’t know there was actually a human being behind it. It was our first season, and we were absolutely blown away that anyone was buying it. We genuinely didn’t know if it would happen.
Ian, what were your first impressions of Universal Works, and why did you choose to make that first order 15 years ago?
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Ian: When you’re out buying, it’s important to spend as much time as possible looking at products and new collections. You see a lot—some of it’s good, some of it’s not so good. When Martin presented us with Universal Works, it didn’t take long to realise we should definitely buy it. Sometimes it’s hard to pinpoint why you buy a new collection, but there was a gut instinct with this one. Everything was right about it. Although we didn’t know David and Stephanie at the time, it was clear they knew menswear. The cut of the garments and use of fabrics were excellent. So yeah, it was an easy decision for us.
David & Stephanie, what have been some of the standout pieces from Universal Works that you feel really resonated with Peggs & son’s audience over the years?
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David: Hopefully, there are lots of memorable moments! The first thing that springs to mind is the wool fleece cardigan we’ve both done really well with in recent years. It’s become a staple, a classic—a piece that Peggs has sold in lots of colours, and a fabric that really worked for us. It takes a more sports-related fabric and does it in a style that’s fresh. It’s not revolutionary, but it’s about using fabric and shape in a slightly new way, and it really took off.
Ian: One thing you do well is understand that men aren’t particularly complicated creatures. Many menswear brands move too fast for their customer, but you’re good at recognising a fit that works and then evolving it subtly with new fabrics and tweaks to the cut. The wool fleece is a perfect example. You expanded the range, added new shapes, but kept the essence of that cardigan really strong.
David: I can be a bit impatient and want to push things forward too fast sometimes. Steph is often the one who says, “Not yet, let’s get the timing right.”
Stephanie: I spend a lot of time with customers, so it helps to get feedback on timing and see what resonates.
David: From a broader view, Peggs has bought into all types of products from us over the years—jackets, pants, wool fleece. Ian has a commercial eye, buying pieces that guys understand and connect with. I think that’s the core of our collection too; we aim for things that feel familiar but are more interesting than average menswear.
Ian, what’s been a particularly meaningful memory or standout moment in your partnership with Universal Works?
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David: Today? Surely!
Ian: I mean, there was a moment some years ago, David, when we happened to be on the same flight.
David: Oh yeah, from JFK. (laughs) That was an entertaining evening, wasn’t it?
Ian: After spending a few hours in the airport lounge, we ended up sitting next to each other on the flight. I have a vague memory of them asking us to stop drinking.
David: Yeah, that was a defining moment, wasn’t it? Happy memories, though!
Can you share some insights into the design inspiration behind the anniversary collection and what you each hope it represents?
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Ian: It was an easy decision to do a collection together, as always. David and Stephanie make it easy when it comes to putting together a collection like this. We wanted to focus on shapes that work well for Peggs & son and pair them with fabrics we love. I’m a fan of herringbone, and the Parachute Liner Jacket really came together with that fabric. The wool fleece on the Uniform Jacket is another favourite, and I believe it’s the first time you’ve done that style in wool fleece.
David: Ian says we make it easy on him with these collaborations, but so much of this is his vision. He remembered a style he wanted and suggested adapting it in a fabric we’d never used for that style. So we had to rework the pattern and figure it out, and the result is fantastic. A lot of this came from Ian’s ideas, and we were happy to bring it to life. The pieces are really special.
What are your hopes for how Peggs & son’s relationship with Universal Works will evolve over the next few years?
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David: I don’t think we should ever get a flight together again; that’s dangerous.
Ian: I’ve stopped drinking because of it.
(both laugh)
David: One thing Peggs & son have done is celebrate our 15-year relationship, and they wrote our first order. It’s brilliant. I’d love to see us keep doing this for the next 15 years.
Ian: It’s worth noting that we’re two independent businesses in an industry increasingly dominated by big corporations. As smaller, independent brands, it’s important for us to support each other and collaborate on special projects.
David: Here’s to the next one.
Ian: We’ll be too old in 15 years! (laughs)
David: Nah, we can keep going!
Ian: (laughs) Excellent!
