Universal Works at Peggs & son., Original Stockists Since 2009
Way back in 2009 we placed one of Universal Works’ very first wholesale orders. Over fifteen years later and that first handshake has grown into a genuine partnership built on a belief in honest, well-made clothing.From that first buy to exclusive collaborative collections, we’ve been proud to support Universal Works from the beginning, and we’re just as proud to see how far the brand has come since those early days.
THE UNIVERSAL WORKS STORY
Universal Works was founded in 2008 by David Keyte and Stephanie Porritt, starting from their kitchen table in Nottingham. David brought with him decades of experience in British fashion, from a sign-writer’s apprenticeship to senior roles with Paul Smith and Maharishi, but the vision for Universal Works was different. Fewer trends, less gimmicks, a focus on fit, fabric, and clothes that feel good to live in.
The brand’s ethos, often summed up by David as “Peace, Love, Soul”, is rooted in real life. Growing up in the Midlands, he watched his father and uncles wear hard-working clothes during the week and dress sharply at weekends. That mix of practicality and pride still runs through every Universal Works collection.
Design influences pull from workwear, military uniforms, sportswear, British tailoring and subcultural style, but always with a contemporary eye. Production has always been central to the story. Universal Works champions skilled, small-scale manufacturing, working with trusted factories in the UK and overseas, particularly in Portugal, and sourcing distinctive fabrics from specialist mills. From Italian-knitted wool fleece to handwoven Harris Tweed from the Outer Hebrides, material choice always leads the design decisions.
From an initial handful of stockists, the brand now reaches customers from Los Angeles to Seoul and along the way they have opened flagship stores in London, Nottingham and Berlin. The philosophy has stayed the same throughout: honest clothes, made with care, for everyday wear.
“It’s less about the collections and more about the people. Years ago when I was running marathons to raise money for a local charity to help families who have children with additional needs , David and Stephanie joined me to raise funds too.” Ian Peggs
15 YEARS TOGETHER. PEGGS & SON x UNIVERSAL WORKS
Since the first time we laid eyes on the inaugural collection in 2009, we’ve watched the brand grow season by season, visiting the Universal Works studio in Nottingham, seeing fabrics being developed first-hand, and being shown around the city by David himself, including more than one memorable detour to fabric specialists along the way. If there’s one thing that becomes clear spending time with him, it’s that he is a designer driven by materials.
Over the years the relationship has naturally grown beyond stockist and supplier. We’ve hosted in store events, shared conversations with customers at Soho House Brighton, and collaborated directly on exclusive pieces, including special Road Shirts and a very special 15th anniversary collection
To celebrate this partnership, we sat down with David, Stephanie and our founder Ian for a candid conversation about the journey so far. From that very first order to the collaborative collection, it’s been a path built on shared values of curiosity and creativity.
“Our working relationship with Universal Works is exactly that- we collaborate on product and help each other in so many ways. We are both independent companies in a world dominated by large corporations. We are not motivated by the bottom line as much as presenting the best product to our customers.” Ian Peggs
ESSENTIAL UNIVERSAL WORKS: CLASSICS AND CURRENT FAVOURITES
Some Universal Works pieces have become staples because they solve real wardrobe problems. Others change fabric, pattern and detail season by season, keeping things fresh without losing identity. Here are the pieces that not only we love, but also help define the brand, and the ones we’re particularly excited about this coming season.
THE ICONS
The Universal Works Bakers Jacket
If there’s one piece that defines Universal Works, it’s the Bakers Jacket. Introduced in the very first collection back in 2009, it’s a modern take on the classic chore jacket, typically cut from durable cotton twill. Signature details include the two-piece sleeve, multiple patch pockets, and that small decorative buttonhole that’s become a Universal Works calling card. Over the years we’ve seen it in everything from lightweight poplin cotton and HBT to Harris Tweed and cotton/linen blend, proof of how adaptable a great design can be.
The Universal Works Road Shirt
The Road Shirt is another long-standing favourite of ours. Taking inspiration from Jack Kerouac’s On The Road and 1950s garage mechanic shirts, it has a relaxed cut, open collar and easy short-sleeve shape that feels casual. But what really sets it apart is fabric. Each season David plays with new weaves, textures and prints. Working with fabrics such as crisp seersucker linens, lightweight denim and seasonal patterns, the same familiar silhouette has a completely different personality. It’s become a summer essential for us and our customers alike.
Universal Works Pleated Track Pants
Universal Works has always had a knack for trousers that feel considered but comfortable. The Pleated Track Pant draws from classic military workwear, with four pockets and a gently relaxed tapered fit. A modern Universal Works staple with room through the thigh and subtle tailoring details, it works just as well with a t-shirt and trainers as it does with a jacket and a pair of Paraboots. Each season the fabric changes, which keeps a familiar fit feeling new.
Universal Works Wool Fleece
Universal Works’ Wool Fleece line has a near cult status. Knitted in Italy using a wool blend with recycled polyester, it delivers warmth without weight and takes colour beautifully. David uses it for a whole range of mid-layers and styles, such as cardigans, zip liners, and bombers. These pieces, in this fabric, have become some of the most loved Universal Works pieces we stock, and once you’ve worn one, it’s easy to see why.
Universal Works Harris Tweed
When Universal Works works with Harris Tweed, they go straight to the source: the Kenneth Mackenzie Mill in the Outer Hebrides. Each length of tweed is handwoven from pure virgin wool, giving every garment subtle variation and character. It’s heritage fabric handled in a contemporary way, one of the things Universal Works does best.
NEW SEASON UNIVERSAL WORKS: WHAT’S LANDING AT PEGGS & SON THIS SEASON
Universal Works Zip Liner - Slub Sateen
This military inspired mid-layer is everything we like about Universal Works in one piece. It nods to classic liner jackets, but is nothing like surplus store replicas. The slub sateen cotton has a soft handle and subtle texture, the fit is spot on, and the detailing feels subtle and considered. It’s the kind of jacket that goes with everything and one that will look better the more you wear it.
Universal Works Road Shirt - Seersucker, Linen and Denim
The Road Shirt returns this season in a wide array of fabrics, showing David’s approach at its best. Crisp green seersucker for hot days, soft linen in sky blue and brown tones, and indigo denim for something with a bit more weight. All with the same familiar relaxed cut, but completely different moods.
Universal Works Two Button Jacket - Derby Stripe Seersucker
A lightweight summer jacket with a twist. The Derby Stripe fabric has a puckered seersucker texture that wicks moisture from the skin and keeps things breathable in warm weather. Easy to throw over a T-shirt, but sharp enough to carry you into the evening.
Universal Works Pleated Track Pant - Tropical Wool
One of our favourite Universal Works trouser fits returns in an unexpected fabric: tropical wool. It might sound counterintuitive for summer, but this lightweight wool suiting is soft, breathable and naturally moisture wicking. Relaxed through the thigh, tapered at the hem, this a silhouette we come back to season after season.
Universal Works Travail Overshirt - Tropical Wool
Cut from the same tropical wool fabric, the Travail Overshirt is an easy layering piece that blurs the line between shirt and jacket. Light, breathable and quietly refined, it is ideal when you want structure without weight.
Universal Works Beach Short
Sometimes simple is best. The Beach Short is a clean, dependable summer short in cotton twill, with an elasticated waist, internal drawstring and a hem that sits just on the knee. Relaxed without looking sloppy, this is a style equally at home on the beach as at the bar afterwards.
15 YEARS TOGETHER: PEGGS & SON X UNIVERSAL WORKS
We first encountered Universal Works in 2009, not long after David Keyte and Stephanie Porritt had launched the brand from Nottingham. The collection was small, clear in its intention, and focused on good fabrics, practical shapes, and clothes that felt designed to be worn.
We placed one of Universal Works’ first wholesale orders that season. At the time neither of us knew where the journey would lead, but the approach immediately made sense to us. David remembers: “Thank f**k someone ordered that first collection! Genuinely, we weren't actually in the room when it happened. We couldn't face people actually telling us how s**t the collection was, or even how great it was. But I knew that one of the stores we wanted to target was a certain store in Brighton, which I knew from its previous name through brands I'd worked for and tried to sell to. So we were genuinely delighted and honoured that Ian wrote an order.”
Over the years our relationship naturally grew beyond the usual retailer and supplier dynamic. Regular visits to Nottingham gave us a closer look at how Universal Works operates, from fabric development to final sampling, and time spent with David quickly reveals where the brand’s priorities lie. Materials come first. Fit second. Everything else follows.
“Peggs & son. has bought into all types of products from us over the years, jackets, pants, wool fleece. Ian Peggs has a commercial eye, buying pieces that guys understand and connect with. I think that’s the core of our collection too; we aim for things that feel familiar but are more interesting than average menswear,” explains David.
Trips up to Nottingham often became informal tours of the city, usually ending somewhere fabric-related or involving a conversation about mills, weaving or finishing processes. It’s clear that Universal Works isn’t driven by seasonal concepts as much as a continuous interest in cloth and how people actually wear it.
As the brand expanded internationally, from a handful of UK stockists to stores and partners across Europe, Asia and the US, the core philosophy has remained intact. We’ve hosted many in store events together, spoken with customers about collections at Soho House Brighton, and watched familiar styles evolve rather than disappear.
That shared understanding eventually led to working together more directly. In SS23 we collaborated on exclusive Road Shirts, exploring fabrics and colours that reflected both brands. More recently, we marked Universal Works’ 15th anniversary with a dedicated collection celebrating the partnership itself. “One thing Peggs & son. have done is celebrate our 15-year relationship, and they wrote our first order,” says David. “It’s brilliant. I’d love to see us keep doing this for the next 15 years.”
What started as a first order has become an ongoing dialogue: ideas exchanged season after season, visits back and forth, and a genuine friendship between Ian and David built around a mutual appreciation for honest clothing. Fifteen years on, Universal Works still feels like it did at the beginning: considered, unforced and grounded in wearability.
UNDERSTANDING UNIVERSAL WORKS FABRICS
Universal Works is a brand that starts with fabric. Every piece, from jackets to trousers, is designed around the cloth it’s made from. Knowing a bit about the fabrics helps you understand why these garments wear so well, last so long, and feel so good.
Wool Fleece
Knitted in Italy from a wool-polyester blend (now using recycled polyester), Wool Fleece is lightweight, soft, and warm without bulk. David explains: “it’s a fabric that really worked for us. It takes a more sports-related fabric and does it in a style that’s fresh. It’s not revolutionary, but it’s about using fabric and shape in a slightly new way”. The fibres take colour beautifully and the fabric sits and washes well, making it ideal for cardigans, gilets, and zipped mid layers.
Harris Tweed
Handwoven from pure virgin wool at the Kenneth Mackenzie Mill in the Outer Hebrides, Harris Tweed is as distinctive as it is durable. Each piece carries the slight irregularities and depth of hand craftsmanship meaning no two are exactly the same. Universal Works takes this heritage fabric and gives it contemporary cuts, such as Two Button Jackets, Pleated Track Pants, and Bakers Jackets, blending tradition with everyday wearability.
Cotton Twill
Universal Works’ exclusive cotton twill is a workhorse fabric. Soft, rugged, and strong enough for jackets and trousers alike, its subtle diagonal texture softens with wear, giving garments a lived in, relaxed feel.
HBT Cotton (Herringbone Twill)
A nod to workwear and military heritage, HBT cotton is strong and structured yet soft enough to move with the body. The herringbone pattern adds texture and interest, making it ideal for jackets, coats, and trousers. This is a fabric that can handle everyday wear while looking smart, not an easy feat to achieve.
Seasonal Specials
Each season Universal Works experiments with fabrics that suit the weather and context: lightweight linen for summer, textured corduroy for autumn, and seersucker for hot days. The brand chooses materials that feel intentional, perform well, and bring new character to familiar silhouettes.
Ikat Fabrics
David is a big fan of pattern, and Ikat fabrics are one of his obsessions. The technique itself is fascinating: the yarns are resist dyed before being woven, creating patterns that shimmer, shift, and never quite repeat perfectly. The result is a fabric full of movement, texture, subtle irregularities, and every piece feels unique. Each season, Universal Works explores new Ikat patterns and colourways, applying them more often than not to their shirts. It’s a playful nod to heritage craft, but executed with modern fit and everyday wearability in mind.
Why Fabric Matters
Understanding fabric is the easiest way to see why Universal Works garments stand the test of time. They aren’t just standard fabrics ordered from some vast trade catalogue. They’re carefully engineered and considered, and they combine with silhouette and cut to create a hardwearing, comfortable and contemporary garment.
SHOP UNIVERSAL WORKS
Explore our full Universal Works collection, from classic staples to seasonal highlights. Every piece has been carefully selected by us with fit, fabric, and wearability in mind. Whether you’re after a timeless Road Shirt, a Wool Fleece cardigan, or one of this season’s tropical suiting trousers, you’ll find it here.
EXCLUSIVE
EXCLUSIVE
Frequently Asked Questions
Where is Universal Works made?
Universal Works works with skilled small scale factories in the UK and overseas, particularly Portugal. Fabrics are carefully sourced, and the emphasis is always on quality and ethical production.
Who founded Universal Works?
Universal Works was founded in 2008 by David Keyte and Stephanie Porritt, starting from their kitchen table in Nottingham.
What is the Bakers Jacket?
The Bakers Jacket is one of Universal Works’ signature pieces, introduced in 2009. Inspired by the classic chore jacket, it features multiple patch pockets, a two piece sleeve, and subtle decorative details, designed for everyday wear with considered fit.
How does Universal Works fit?
Universal Works focuses on relaxed yet considered fits. Pieces are designed to feel comfortable, without being baggy. Many items, like the Pleated Track Pant, are slightly loose through the top with a gentle taper or tailored detail. We find that most customers take their regular size and this applies across all of their collections.
Is Universal Works true to size?
Yes, sizes are consistent with standard UK sizing. For layered garments like jackets or knitwear, we recommend considering the fabric and intended fit. Our team is happy to advise if you’re unsure.
What is Universal Works known for?
The brand is known for honest, well made clothing that combines workwear, tailoring, and subcultural influences. Signature pieces include the Bakers Jacket, Road Shirt, Wool Fleece line, and seasonal interpretations in quality fabrics like Harris Tweed and Ikat.
Where can I buy Universal Works in Brighton?
Peggs & son. has been an original stockist since 2009. Visit us in-store on Duke Street in Brighton, or browse our full collection online.
