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Brighton BN1 1AG

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ACHILLES' HEEL - TENDER SS23

Tender has its roots in antique workwear and machinery, especially from the Great British Steam Age. On a steam train, the tender was the truck which carried the coal and water to power the locomotive.

They were built incredibly well, crafted from solid cast iron, and had to hold enough fuel to take a train weighing many tons all over the country. Tender transfers this well made, important ethos into it's clothing, creating items that are carefully thought out and expertly constructed to last the length of time.

Tender utilises traditional crafting methods alongside exploring new approaches to conventional weaving, making, tanning, and dyeing processes to produce their unque garments, keeping the antique workwear feel but applying a modern twist.

The "Achilles' Heel' range from Tender embodies the Greek hero Achilles. To prevent his death, Achilles' mother Thetis took Achilles to the River Styx, which was supposed to offer powers of invulnerability. She dipped his body into the water but, because she held him by his heel, it was not touched by the water of the river.

Tender has used this idea to dye their Achilles' Heel range, dipping raw garments into indigo vats, only leaving the held areas undyed.

"Lost-wax brass casting brass requires several stages: once the design is finished and clay or wire models have been tested and adjusted, it is constructed by a master jeweller. This brass and wax master is covered in a rubber solution, which sets to form a soft mould, which is cut open to remove the master. A series of wax castings are now made in the rubber mould, one for every single button or buckle part.

These waxes are set in plaster, which is hard enough to have molten brass poured into it. The intense heat of the brass melts away the wax, which is ‘lost’. When it has hardened, the final casting has rough edges and large sticks of brass coming out at the risers. This is called sprue, and must be cut off and filed before the finished product can be tumbled in sand to rub off any sharp edges."

To view the whole Tender collection, including both long and short sleeve shirts, their iconic lost wax cast keyrings and their sgraffito red clay mugs please click here...

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